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Jennifer Gibson Vintage Jewellery
Jennifer Gibson Vintage Jewellery

So, you’ve fallen in love with the sparkle of vintage jewellery—but how do you know if the treasure you’re eyeing is truly authentic and how do you gauge quality ?

With over 40 years of collecting and curating experience (and having lent pieces to exhibitions like Dior and Chanel at the V&A), I’ve learned a few key ways to spot the real treasures. Whether you’re new to vintage or refining your eye, this guide will help you shop with confidence and joy.

“I’ve learned a few key ways to spot the real treasures.”
Vintage Sardi Crystal Butterfly Necklace

1. Look for Quality Craftsmanship

One of the joys of vintage is the unmistakable quality. Pieces were often made by hand or hand finished and with great care and attention to detail. Look for:

Intricate settings – front and back

Claw set stones
Precise stone placement
Glass or crystal stones as opposed to plastic or resin
Fancy cut stones and various cuts
Durable clasps and closures – If something feels too flimsy or mass-produced, it might not be a genuine vintage piece—or it may be from the lower end of its era.
Weighty pieces
In-tact plating that retains its brightness
Christan Dior Mise en Dior Necklace
Vintage Art Deco Target Brooch
Christan Dior Mise en Dior Necklace

2. Check for Maker’s Marks

Typically, on the reverse of the piece – sometimes obvious and sometimes more difficult to spot and decipher

Marks can usually be traced to specific companies, ateliers or designers

Don’t worry if you can’t decipher every symbol—there are plenty of reference sources, and I’m always happy to help my clients decode them

And just because a piece doesn’t carry a mark doesn’t mean it isn’t coveted or indeed attributable to a designer – it takes a little more knowledge to determine that’s all
A Collecter's Guide to Vintage Chanel by Jennifer Gibson Jewellery All Rights Inc
Vintage Dior Art Deco Necklace
Vintage Chanel Matelassé Necklace

3. Consider the Style and Design

Each era had its own aesthetic and the craftmanship of the time should marry correctly:
Art Deco pieces (1920s–30s) often feature bold, geometric shapes and white metals
Mid-century designs (1950s–60s) lean toward playful glamour and crystal overload
1980s statement jewellery? Think bold gold, oversized faux pearls, and runway drama

Which are you most drawn to ? Check out our collections page to help you decide.

Learning to recognise these visual cues takes time, but it’s incredibly rewarding.

“Their enduring appeal ensures that vintage pieces remain relevant and sought-after today.”
Vintage Chanel Letter Charm Bracelet Necklace

4. Materials Matter

In our world, vintage doesn’t mean “precious” or imply materials with intrinsic value, such as precious metals or gemstones. Many iconic pieces were made with rhinestones, glass, lucite, and gold-plated metal – especially designer costume jewellery. That doesn’t diminish their jewellery value or collectability. In fact, some of the most sought-after vintage jewellery pieces are high-quality costume designs from the world’s best-known brands such as Chanel and Dior or scarce pieces from Houses such as Schiaparelli. Each one a scarce and rare wearable work of art and intensely coveted. Especially as many of these treasures were made solely for the moment of the fashions they adorned and not expected to last decades.

5. Condition

Condition is a key for many reasons but if you’re starting out then the best advice is not to compromise on condition – this is a considerable aspect of value, wearability and longevity. Check stones are present, plating perfect and avoid converted pieces or any signs of repair.

6. Provenance and Trust

This might be the most important point of all: buy from trusted sources.
A well-respected seller will always be transparent about materials, era, and condition, will always be happy to answer any questions you have and will always allow return of an item should you not wish to keep it.

Take a look at our authenticity page if you’d like to know a little more.

One very big tip is just because a piece is signed – it doesn’t mean it’s authentic. There are multiple characteristics that must all add up to indicate authenticity.

At Jennifer Gibson Jewellery, every piece is curated for its quality, authenticity, and timeless allure — and I stand by each one.

Vintage Attwood & Sawyer Big Cat Cuff
Vintage Gold Black Crystal Ring
Vintage Gold Pearl Collar
“Authentic vintage jewellery goes beyond style —it carries stories, craftsmanship, and a sense of discovery.”

Authentic vintage jewellery goes beyond style —it carries stories, craftsmanship, and a sense of discovery. And by building your knowledge (alongside a trusted guide), your search will result in pieces that resonate with your own story. This is the magic of vintage jewelling.

Whether you’re hunting for your first piece or adding to a growing collection, enjoy the journey.

Explore our latest arrivals or get in touch if you have any questions—I’d love to hear from you and share in your jewelling journies.